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8 Melbourne bakeries leading the Asian-inspired pastry boom

Discover the addresses at the forefront of the trend combining French technique and Asian ingredients
Madeleines at Tori's in Melbourne.

Tori's

Raya

Light timber details complemented by an airy, sunlit space and a cult following: this is Raya, the Melbourne bakery from Malaysian baker, internet sensation and cookbook author Raymond Tan, who also runs “Scandinasian” bakehouse Dua and CBD bingsu (Korean shaved ice) haunt Nimbo. The menu at Raya speaks to his heritage, evident in a thick slab of kaya toast fashioned from housemade shokupan (Japanese milk bread), with soft-boiled eggs on the side, the same bread used to craft sandwiches filled with glazed wedges of Spam and silky scrambled eggs. Save room for the bouncy pandan kueh talam, layered with savoury coconut cream, then chase it with a strawberry matcha crowned in rose cream.

Roslyn Thai Cafe

Coconut is the name of the game at Roslyn Thai Cafe, and Busarin ‘Rin’ Rojkaranwong, whose dessert program grew out of her lockdown-era online food business, plays it beautifully. Think Thai tea chiffon with Thai tea kaya and a black herbal jelly rosette, or taro chiffon crowned with a nest of foi thong (crunchy egg threads in sugar syrup). Her partner, Sapol ‘Pol’ Deoisares, ex-Long Chim like Rojkaranwong, handles the savoury side, from a comforting bowl of jok moo sub (pork ball congee) to green curry with fried chicken or Chinese doughnuts with gooey steamed eggs. The courtyard is a summertime haven, perfected by the refreshing salve of Thai milk tea.

Tori’s

Down a laneway, a hole-in-the-wall with a queue that sometimes spills out the door sits as the first of Tori’s two Japanese-inspired CBD outposts. Inside, it’s a proper cafe, with coveted mismatched seats, free sparkling water on tap and no table service. Matcha is the speciality drink here, with its lauded strawberry counterpart, and is so popular you can opt to buy the powder and a bamboo whisk set for home. Then there’s the fridge of picturesque cakes, from Basque cheesecake with vanilla and lemon zest to the bestselling strawberry shortcake. The key to Tori’s success lies in Thai-born entrepreneur Sutinee Suntivatana, who studies trends, then adds her own spin. [Various locations]

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