The name itself is a declaration of intent. Porkfat makes a promise of rich, unapologetic flavour, and the Haymarket kitchen confidently delivers. This is not a nod to a passing trend; it is a return to a fundamental of Thai food, where pork fat was the traditional medium before commercial oils became commonplace. The result is a carte with a distinctive depth and savouriness, a quality that runs through offerings inspired by the home-style and street-food cooking of central Thailand. The preparation here is precise and vibrant, balancing intensity with nuance. The kitchen has become known for a particularly compelling larb, where ground pork is coated in its own rendered fat and tossed with smoked chilli and roasted rice powder. Other creations that have made their mark include grilled pork jowl marinated in aged fish sauce, and a southern-style tiger prawn curry that combines aromatic complexity with a potent, fiery kick. Seafood is a prominent feature, with a deep-fried whole barramundi, often served with a bright mango salad or a classic three-flavour sauce, being a recurring presence. Set in a compact, split-level space, the dining room offers a view of the chefs at work, their calm focus a contrast to the bold flavours they produce. Dishes arrive on hand-painted ceramics from Wiang Kalong, an ancient city in Thailand known for its craft. It is a small detail, but one that speaks to the thoughtful philosophy that defines this restaurant.