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The Disfrutar team.

Left to right: Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch

Disfrutar: ‘Creativity is our passion’

Journalist

It was also a big night for Spain, with the ever-popular Basque restaurant Asador Etxebarri coming in at number two and Madrid’s DiverXo at number four on the list. Casañas says they “try to fly the flag” for their country, but he may be understating their impact: their food is pure Spanish Modernism and along with the likes of Quique Dacosta, Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz) and of course Albert Adrià (Enigma), they are continuously invigorating a style of cuisine that many predicted would die out with the closure of elBulli in 2011.

There’s a question now though about motivation. With three Michelin stars and a World’s Best Restaurant title, the team truly have reached the pinnacle of their profession in a quantifiable sense. Not that they seem particularly driven by accolades and as with many of their contemporaries in Spain, there is a constant desire to innovate, to keep moving and push the boundaries of gastronomy. How very elBulli.

“We are a team and we have a lot of teams behind us, but we are three people that need to be on all the projects,” says Xatruch. “We start work at nine o'clock in the morning and we try to control all the areas of the restaurant. Of course, creativity is our passion, so when we can be in the kitchen, making recipes, it's when we are [most] happy. But we have a company with three restaurants. 120 employees. So, we have a lot of work that is not just [cooking]. Minimum one day per week, we are all three together. And we talk about our cooking or the decisions we are developing. And for us, this is the way that we worked 25 years ago and the way we work today.”

The world’s best restaurant has been a quarter of a century in the making then. Some things just take time. 

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