On the world map, Hong Kong is but a speck on the coast of the South China Sea. But it is precisely its location and history as a colony and trading port that have made it the culinary powerhouse it is today. With a majority Cantonese population, it has held onto stories and traditions long lost north of the border. Colonial-era contact made holding on ever more important, yet it also brought the likes of Western-style baking, tinned milk and Ceylon tea, landing squarely in the cha chaan teng, where “pineapple” buns, egg tarts and milk tea became local fixtures. The result is a food culture that is both deeply Cantonese and unmistakably Hong Kong.
Crispy chicken at Seventh Son. All images courtesy of the restaurants, unless otherwise stated
Big JJ Seafood Hotpot
A relative newcomer, this no-frills hotpot spot opened in late 2020 and became a cult favourite almost immediately. The draw is the attention to provenance that is usually reserved for fine diners: locally slaughtered yellow beef, catch-of-the-day seafood, and broths made with care. Pair that with a cellar curated by wine lovers, Cantopop hits and service that makes everyone feel like they belong, and it’s not hard to see why there are queues, even with two nightly seatings.
Ha Ming Kee
Chiu Chow fish balls trace back to Chaozhou, a part of Guangdong with a fiercely distinct culture, and the Ha family was one of many who brought it to Hong Kong. Ha Ming Kee was founded decades ago by Roger Ha's parents in the narrow alleyways of Kowloon Walled City, and at its height supplied hundreds of restaurants. Now with its own noodle shops spread across Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, the shop still handcrafts everything daily. Go for the fish balls and golden deep-fried fish cubes, made of pure conger eel, and skip the floury imitations elsewhere. [Various locations]
London Restaurant
Trolley dim sum is going the way of the rotary phone, which makes this Mong Kok institution worth the trip. It’s one of the few venues in town still pushing carts in old-style banquet halls across multiple levels. Come for the nostalgia and the big round tables, and order the classics: juicy siu mai, beancurd-sheet rolls, steamed chicken with fish maw, and ma laai go (brown sugar cake) for dessert. Find it at 612 Nathan Road.
Photo: author's own
Mak's Noodle
The wonton noodle's journey from Guangzhou to Hong Kong is said to run through one family, the Maks, and reputedly the recipe hasn't changed since the founder's day. The teaspoon-sized shrimp wontons with silky, translucent wrappers are the main draw, but just as worth savouring are signature springy lye-water-infused noodles, and the pork and dried flounder broth, a study in Cantonese umami. For a little pick-me-up in between meals, order a sai yung, a snack-sized bowl.
Ser Wong Fun
‘Tai See’ snake soup originates from the Qing era, China’s final dynasty, and this is one of the few places where you can just swing by and try some. Founded in 1895, it’s now run by fourth-generation owner Gigi Ng, who has championed snake as a serious traditional ingredient rather than a curiosity. Winter is the traditional season for this delicacy, but don’t miss the claypot rice with preserved Chinese sausage and liver sausage, a speciality. Find it at 30 Cochrane Street in Central.
Seventh Son
Chui Fook-chuen is known as one of the great Cantonese chefs of the 20th century. One of the founders of Fook Lam Moon, one of Hong Kong’s most storied dining rooms, he named his own restaurant after his place as the seventh son in the family. He passed his skills onto his son, who continues the legacy – the recipes here are about as close as you can get to what the Cantonese elite ate in the late Qing dynasty. The roast suckling pig, with its paper-thin crackling, is a must-try and needs to be pre-ordered. Don't skip the deep-fried egg custard with chicken kidney.
Tai On Coffee and Tea
Open since 1969, Tai On faced closure when its original owners decided to emigrate. Heritage enthusiasts took it over in 2022, keeping the iconic vintage interiors – think timber booths, mirrored walls and mosaic tiles – largely intact, and reopened it as a cafe with strong cha chaan teng influences. Yuen yeung (Hong Kong-style milk tea and coffee) is recast as a latte, and egg tarts are infused with milk tea, Ovaltine and hojicha flavours. In the evening, stop by for cocktails featuring Chinese medicinal herbs.
The Chairman
If there were a flagbearer for Cantonese fine-dining today, this would be it. Danny Yip opened The Chairman in 2009, and it became the first Hong Kong restaurant to top Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. Unlike many Chinese restaurants that chase modernity with Western ingredients, the ethos here is to stay true to the Chinese canon, whether it be researching forgotten recipes, improving technique or tracking down the best sources. The essential dish for first-timers is steamed flower crab with a sauce of aged Shaoxing wine and chicken oil, served over flat rice noodles, but don’t miss the thick-cut char siu, and ask about seasonal specials.
